Chill out: Yotam Ottolenghi’s summer granita recipes

Feb 05, 2024

Three frozen refreshers: chocolate granita with vanilla creme fraiche and chocolate curls, cantaloupe ice with lime and tequila, and poached peaches with a rosé wine granita

We often use the verb “to freeze” in a metaphorical way: to freeze in time, or the ability to capture something that’s fleeting in perpetuity. Sicilians, who came up with granita, understand a thing or two about the power of freezing to capture a very literal quality – namely flavour. A type of coarse sorbet, easily made at home without much fuss, granita’s icy crystals showcase the flavour of ripe fruit, or even wine or chocolate, with very little distraction. It is, for me, as much a welcome seasonal refresher as it is a pure expression of the summer’s bounty.

Both the peaches and granita can be made up to a week in advance. The peaches are great on yoghurt, too, so make extra, if you fancy. I’ve used a spent vanilla pod here (ie, a pod saved after scraping out the beans); alternatively, use a quarter-teaspoon of vanilla bean extract.

Prep 10 minCook 20 minChill 2-3 hrFreeze 1-2 hrServes 8

4 under-ripe peaches (220g), halved and stoned400ml light rosé wine – Provençal or similar100g caster sugar2 lemons, skin removed with a peeler in 8 wide strips weighing 30g in total, then juiced to get 2 tbsp1 spent vanilla pod½ tsp rose water250g creme fraiche

Put the peach halves skin side up in a large saute pan and add the wine, sugar, lemon peel, vanilla pod and a quarter-teaspoon of the rose water. Bring to a boil then turn down to a simmer and leave to poach for five minutes. Gently turn over the peaches and simmer for five minutes more, until the fruit is cooked through but still holds its shape. Transfer the peaches and the poaching liquid to a bowl, leave to cool, then refrigerate for two to three hours, until well chilled.

Strain all but three tablespoons of the poaching liquid into a large, high-sided metal tray that will fit in the freezer. Stir the lemon juice and remaining quarter-teaspoon of rose water into the syrup in the tray, then freeze for one to two hours, until completely frozen. Gently peel off the peach skins and discard along with the lemon peel and vanilla pods, then return the poached peach halves to the fridge.

Using a fork, scrape the frozen peach syrup mix until it’s all crystalline in texture, then return to the freezer. To serve, divide the creme fraiche between eight bowls and top each serving with one peach half and a teaspoon of the reserved syrup. Pile the granita on top and serve.

This is a simple dessert for easy summer entertaining. The chocolate curls are made by scraping and shaving a bar of chocolate with a large knife, but you can just grate it instead, if you prefer. To make it dairy-free, simply omit the cream or swap it for a plant-based alternative.

Prep 15 minFreeze 5 hr+Serves 4-6

120ml espresso (ie, 3 shots)120g demerara sugar2 tsp vanilla bean paste ¼ tsp flaky sea salt2 tbsp cocoa powder150g creme fraiche 1½ tsp caster sugar 1 x 110g bar dark chocolate, shaved with a knife into 15g curls, or grated

To make the granita, put the espresso, 380ml water, demerara sugar, half the vanilla and all the salt in a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for three to five minutes, until the mix is gently simmering and the sugar has dissolved.

Put the cocoa in a medium bowl, slowly whisk in the hot espresso mixture to make a smooth paste, then leave to cool.

Once cool, pour the granita mix into a two-litre container and freeze for two hours, until solid ice crystals start to form at the edges. Use a fork to separate the crystals and stir them into the unfrozen middle, making sure to incorporate any cocoa that may have sunk to the bottom. Return to the freezer and repeat the stirring process every hour for another three to five hours, until you have a mass of icy crystals that stay separate.

Put the creme fraiche in a bowl and stir in the caster sugar and the remaining teaspoon of vanilla. Divide half the creme fraiche between four small frozen glasses and top with the granita. Spoon over the rest of the creme fraiche, top with the chocolate curls and serve at once.

This is a great way to celebrate summer melons. Use over-ripe fruit, if you can, because that’s when they are at their sweetest and most perfumed. The alcohol content stops this granita from being especially icy, but if you prefer, leave it out and replace with water. Use the leftover melon seeds to make a crunchy brittle to sprinkle over the top, or to add to granola: spread them out on a roasting tray lined with baking paper and bake at 160C (140C fan)/310F/gas 2½ for 20-30 minutes.

Prep 15 minCook 5 minFreeze 10 hr+Serves 6

5 limes, 4 left whole, 1 cut into wedges, to serve1 cantaloupe melon (1.15kg), peeled, seeds scooped out and reserved, flesh roughly chopped (750g)220g caster or granulated sugar 70ml tequila, plus extra to serveFlaked sea salt½ tsp aleppo chilli flakes (optional)

Shave the zest off the four whole limes, avoiding the bitter white pith underneath, then cut the limes in half and juice them to get 105ml.

Put the melon seeds, lime skin, sugar and tequila in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Once it’s bubbling, cook, stirring frequently, for a minute, then pour through a sieve set over a bowl. Discard the lime peel and seeds (unless you’re planning on making the brittle mentioned in the recipe introduction) and leave the syrup to cool completely.

Put the melon flesh in a blender with the lime juice and the syrup, blitz for 30 seconds until completely smooth, then pour into a metal tray that will fit in your freezer. Cover with reusable wrap and freeze for six hours, until frozen solid.

Remove the tray from the freezer and carefully bash the melon ice into chunks. Put half the chunks in the large bowl of a food processor and add a pinch of salt, and return the rest of the melon ice to the freezer. Blitz for a few minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as you go, until the mix is smooth, soft and scoopable. Transfer to a two-litre container, cover and put in the freezer. Repeat with the other half of the frozen melon mix, add this to the same container, then freeze for four to five hours to firm up.

In a small bowl, mix the aleppo chilli, if using, with a quarter-teaspoon of flaked salt. Scoop the granita into tall glasses, scatter over the aleppo salt, or just salt, then serve at once with the lime wedges alongside and a shot of tequila.